NZ travel: Outdoor family-friendly adventures in Taupō and Ruapehu

Needing little introduction, at the heart of our adventure-filled North Island sits the Southern Hemisphere’s largest freshwater lake, Lake Taupō.

It may still simmer on the Pacific Ring of Fire, but today this volcanic lahar-preserved region comes steeped in tranquillity and dramatic topographical beauty. Perched at an elevation of 360m and spanning 600sq km, it is one of the country’s prime outdoor recreation destinations – perfect for an easy self-drive holiday full of fresh air and activities.

Between the town of Taupō on the lake’s northeast and Tongariro National Park flanking its southwest, not to be missed wonders hide and reside within, around and above the lake’s delightful shores.

Lagoons, forests and lush birdlife

Whether you hike it or bike it, you can follow sections of the Timber Trail that runs through Pureora Forest Park. Boots and bike wheels can explore the ancient rainforest’s impressive natural wilderness and man-made treasures in what was once a European pioneers’ area of tramlines, logging and sawmilling.

Later saved by environmentalists, the broadleaf podocarp forest is now enjoyed by nature-loving recreationists in search of ancient native stands of tōtara and rimu trees, as well as the birdlife that inhabits them.

About 35 minutes drive from Taupō, Waihora Lagoon is reached along a sunray-flecked trail of flickering ferns and native and non-native blooms leading to tracts of tall kahikateas knuckled in buttress roots. From their hardy and straight trunks, basket ferns bulge like hanging pot plants.

Reached via an attractive boardwalk, tranquil bamboo sedge-edged Waihora Lagoon is so still, it’s near impossible to discern where its grasses and its waters meet. And sitting pretty around this ephemeral wetland nirvana are many mānuka and cabbage trees.

Becoming sedated after feasting on fermenting fruits, New Zealand’s native woodpigeon is sometimes cheekily referred to as the country’s drunkest bird (luckily, it’s monogamous).

But this attractive metallic green and bronze pigeon is a functional farmer. Swallowing berries whole, it then disperses their seeds across wide areas of native forest.

The boisterous territorial tūī also goes on pub-crawls in this nectar-rich forest. The tūī sports dark iridescent plumage and orchestrates an impressive repertoire of cackles, coughs and creaks, and laser-like calls, thanks to having a dual voice box.

While you won’t spot fish in Waihora Lagoon, you will hear the gentle call of the kererū and a symphony of guttural calls from the green and golden bell frog. Classed as endangered in its native eastern Australia, this sun-loving frog lounges on leaves, revealing chocolate brown spots and stripes on its green body.

You’ll likely want to stay at a mid-ride campsite or lodge if completing the whole breath-stealing 85km-long Timber Trail (complete with the world’s only bikeable ex spiral railway line).

The journey comes stitched together by a series of spectacular suspension bridges — some more than 100 metres in length — that straddle creeks and gorges at impressively heady heights.

Lakeside cycling

With a perimeter of around 190km, Taupō is cycling heaven. On an easy family-friendly shared pedestrian and bike track, follow up to 10km of the breezy Great Lake Pathway.

Beginning at the boat harbour, cycle south through Taupō Lakefront Reserve. Bordering Tapuaeharuru Bay, you’ll pass some of the Taupō Sculpture Trust’s bronze, steel and fibreglass sculptures created by New Zealand artists.

See the metal trout sculpture celebrating the region’s renowned fishing. Terry Stringer’s Flora Totem stands proud near Swell, a gorgeous glass and steel wave sculpture created by environmental artist Colleen Ryan-Priest.

Along the pathway, you’ll notice multiple spots steaming away where geothermal streams seep into the warm lakeside sand and lake (take note, however, of the “scalding hot water” signage). You can snatch a swim at Wharewaka Point before enjoying a lakeside picnic.

The kōwhai-flecked waterside trail continues on to flower-adorned Five Mile Bay, offering sensational views across the lake towards snow-tipped Mt Tongariro, Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngāuruhoe.

Hidden lakes and waterfalls

Recognised for both its Māori cultural heritage and natural volcanic beauty, dual Unesco World Heritage-listed Tongariro National Park attracts tourists from across the world. Located in the Ruapehu region, off Lake Taupō’s far south, summer visitors flock here to hike the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing; a 19.4km section of the more hardcore multi-day 43km-long Tongariro Northern Circuit trek.

If you prefer more leisurely walking, there is plenty of that on offer in the national park too. A lesser-traipsed 5km-long loop will lead you around Lake Rotopounamu, which sits tucked into the western edge of Mount Pihanga.

It’s where the North Island robin likes to flit between rimu, black pine and hīnau trees. This rainfall-fed crater lake features shingle beaches, and cradles within a jade chain of ponga ferns and pikopiko ferns: the peppery bush asparagus.

Equally enchanting, 30km southwest of Rotopounamu is the delightful 800m-long walk to Tawhai Falls. It’s where you’ll find the aromatic mountain toatoa, a crocheted canopy of ferns and the delicate white flowers of many a mānuka tree.

When the foliage parts to reveal steps and the perfect viewpoint, you’ll be taking in the cool cascades of a 13m-high snowmelt-fed waterfall. Watch it tumble down an ancient lava flow course before trickling around the boulders of Whakapapanui Stream.

You’ll be forgiven for squealing when you recognise the setting. That’s right, you’re sharing Gollum’s Pool from the Lord of the Rings.

Cafe in the clouds

It’s now an all-seasons must-do experience with the new cutting-edge glass-encased Sky Waka gondola. The superfast gondola (some with glass floors) elevates you 1.8km to the 2797m-high ski area of Whakapapa on active Mt Ruapehu (which last erupted as recently as 1995 and 1996).

The snow-draped peak is North Island’s highest point. Winter skiing is a thrill here, as is summer hiking across the craggy ridges that come in all forms of stunning colours.

If you have the camping adventurer in you to do the epic multi-day 66km loop around the mountain, you’ll be awarded with glaciers, gorges, waterfalls, river crossings, mountain beech forests and even desert. Summer blooms include foxgloves, buttercups and orchids.

You can also enjoy the shorter two-hour return Skyline Walk, which leads you to a vertiginous pinnacled ridge. And the 90-minute Waterfalls Descent leisurely walks you down to the base area.

When all energy has been expended up there, relax and refuel before spectacular views through the ceiling-to-floor windows of architecturally designed Knoll Ridge Chalet.

All decked out in spectacular pine, New Zealand’s highest restaurant, cafe and takeaway alley stands sentinel (teetering in part) over rugged Mt Ruapehu. Admire the intricate pou carving Paretetaitonga, which welcomes all visitors.

Vaccine pass required for entry. Adults, $39, children (5-17 years), $19, seniors (over 65) and students, $25. mtruapehu.com/sky-waka

Fishing forays

Fishing and angling nuts will be in their element at historic Turangi. It’s where American novelist Zane Grey wrote about his trout-fishing adventures of the 1920s. Backed by the Kaimanawa Range, the town is still hailed on newzealand.com as the “unofficial trout fishing headquarters of New Zealand”.

Both the Tauranga-Taupō River and Tongariro River are home to large rainbow trout and brown trout that swim north to Lake Taupō, making this a world-class fly-fishing destination.

While at Turangi, don’t miss the nearby Tongariro National Trout Centre. The Department of Conservation-run education centre comes complete with a hatchery, fly-fishing museum, and native aquarium for up-close interactions with the region’s prized rainbow trout.

The centre’s pond is a great place to introduce kids to fishing, which also offers lessons.

Vaccine passes are required for entry, with numbers limited to 100 visitors. Adults, $15, children (5-16), $5, seniors (65+), $12, family pass, $45. troutcentre.com

Lakeside holiday hamlets

Wade alongside the mallard ducks, black swans and elegant white-faced herons that grace the waters of the holiday hamlets of Omori, Pukawa and Kuratau. It’s where time ticks to a slower pace on Great Lake Taupō’s southwestern shores.

The village ramps and jetties are perfect for launching a boat or heading out on a kayak or stand-up paddleboard.

Long languid lakeside ambles can also be taken through the mature forested walks along the shoreline here. Find the mistletoe-dressed kōhūhū and kōwhai trees upon reaching Omori Reserve before spotting the spawning trout in Omori Stream.

It’s a picture-postcard world along this slow-paced stretch of the lake. And at adjoining Lake Kuratau, there are many small trout to be found. It’s an excellent and popular spot for families fishing from kayaks.

Enchanting Huka Falls

You’re not going to visit Lake Taupō without feeling the spray of its famous falls on your face, right? Well, brace yourself. It’s loud. It’s cool. And it’s oh-so thrilling.

The 11m-high Huka Falls are raucous and riotous. Around 220,000 litres of water per second are forced through the 15m-wide neck of the chasm, hurled down the cliff-face into the river below. The best views are marvelled at from the Huka Falls Walkway and the footbridge that straddles the river.

If you’re a real thrill-seeker, venture on to the churning river itself for a hair-raising ride on the Hukafalls Jet.

Zip upstream, bouncing about on the white-water crests – even at full throttle, you will become suspended mid-ride, hovering on the torrent’s untiring fury, before scooting off in the falls’ wake. It’s a scream, quite literally.

Vaccination pass required. Adults, $99, children, $67. hukafallsjet.com

For more New Zealand travel ideas and inspiration, go to newzealand.com

Check traffic light settings, vaccine requirements and Ministry of Health advice before travel. covid19.govt.nz