Bristol straddles the Tennessee-Virginia border in the Blue Ridge Highlands. The town and its undiscovered surroundings are seeing a cultural burgeoning, and a new farm resort in Bristol’s northwest pocket has emerged along with it. Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards began as a vineyard in 2013 and has grown into a true leisure destination.
Nicewonder has a seriously good restaurant, tucked-away luxury yurts, lush natural grounds, and an infinity pool overlooking acres of vineyards. The soon-to-open spa will top must-see lists in 2023. Here’s the rundown on Bristol’s darling new grown-up playground.
Adjacent to Bristol’s famed golf club, The Virginian, is its 450-acre sister property, Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards.
A picturesque vineyard with actually good wine
Rows and rows of rolling vineyards are the first things you see as the winding road opens into a spectacular clearing. Local businessman and philanthropist Don Nicewonder and his sons have been producing wine here for decades, and the varietals have won all sorts of awards along the way. I was assured that the rolling hills provide an ideal environment for growing grapes, but I was skeptical of the wine itself. I wouldn’t call myself a wine snob, but I’ve tasted enough wines across the South to set my non-West-Coast tasting bar pretty low. The Nicewonder wines truly surprised me in the best way.
Aside from the Tasting Room experience, you can try Nicewonder wine in property restaurants, in your room, and at The Virginian. You can also purchase bottles online.
The twelve-acre vineyard is home to Viognier, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cab Franc, and Petit Verdot grapes. (The first three listed are award winners at the prestigious Governor’s Cup in Richmond.) The friendly and knowledgeable staff in the cozy Tasting Room gave me healthy pours and lots of accompanying stories. Order charcuterie with your tasting, and pick a spot at the bar, on the covered patio, or outside if it’s nice.
Author’s Note: During my visit, everyone stressed Mr. Nicewonder’s importance to the area and the property. He passed away just a few weeks ago, hours before his 85th birthday, and I am thinking of his family as I write this in celebration of his legacy.
Luxurious lodging options
As their small-but-impressive team improved the vineyard’s wine-making methods, the family sought to accompany the wine experience with on-property lodging. The Yurt Village opened first — about a year ago — and has been a huge hit. Nine luxury yurts are nestled among the trees between the winery tasting room and the main inn. Each yurt sleeps two to six guests and is more akin to a luxury tiny home than a traditional rustic yurt.
The giant fire pit in the middle of the Yurt Village is a cozy place to hang with a glass of wine or s’mores.
Each yurt has a kitchenette, custom-fitted furniture, rainfall showers, and lusciously comfortable beds. Front porches and back decks provide community or solitude, whether you’re staying with old friends or next to new ones.
The centerpiece of the property is the 28-room main inn. While its “farmhouse chic” style isn’t my favorite design flavor, the amenities more than made up for it. Rooms range from 325 square feet to the 900-square-foot penthouse. Many suites have sprawling balconies, and every pampering detail was considered, from the terry bathrobes to the local libations and snacks.
The inn’s main lobby is open-air and inviting. There’s a fireplace, floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the lake and vineyards, and windy staircases connecting the room floors to the lobby and restaurant.
The rooms are clean and minimalist but aptly reflect the mountain vibe of the area.
While I adored my balconied suite overlooking the vineyard (to the right of the chimney in this photo), I want to book a yurt next time!
Get your culinary kicks at Hickory
After a wine tasting and a walk through the fields, my appetite was rearing its head. Just a few flights down from my room is the warm and inviting signature fine-dining restaurant, Hickory. It’s open to all for reservations and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. I kept having “this place can’t be in Bristol, VA” thoughts throughout my meal as chef Travis Milton served up delightfully daring dish after delightfully daring dish. I devoured everything, but the purple cornbread and roasted beet salad took the cake. Ok, and my mezcal cocktail was out-of-this-world, too.
The menu changes regularly, but here’s what was served when I went. Image: Zoe Yarborough
Chef Milton gracefully runs a kitchen full of eager and cheerful cooks and servers. He’s good buddies with Sean Brock and some of the best of the best when it comes to elevated Southern and rustic Appalachian cuisine.
If you come with a group, book the Chef’s Table and go on a tasting menu adventure. There is also a private dining room, a spacious and lively bar, a 1700-bottle wine cellar, and outdoor dining with spectacular views of the vineyard, lake, and lawns. Hickory’s artwork is exclusively by Benjamin Walls, a collaborating artist bringing rotating art and music events to Nicewonder.
Other fauna and flora abound
Aside from the grapes, the farm itself features two vegetable gardens and a greenhouse full of flowers, plants, and even pineapples. The gardens’ bounty is used in all of the property’s dining concepts, and you can even take some home with you. A market next to the greenhouse sells just-picked vegetables, fresh blooms, and delicious jams and jellies. Across the farm, say hi to more than 250 heads of cattle and lots of chickens in the coops. I heard that sheep and pigs will join the cast soon, too.
Pull up an Adirondack chair by the pond for a little peace and quiet.
So many ways to work out and zen out
I didn’t bring a bathing suit, but Nicewonder’s infinity pool, hot tub, and pool deck are ready for you to plop down in now. Order a snack or beverage at the pool bar, and cozy up on one of the ample lounge chairs. For a bit more privacy, you can reserve one of the three private poolside cabanas.
To get a proper workout in — aside from all those “wine-glass curls” — the fitness yurt opens this winter with Technogym equipment and Schwinn spinning bikes. Later next year, the interconnected Spa Yurt Village will feature treatment yurts, relaxation areas, water elements, and a 50-foot main spa yurt with retail space and reception.
To stay up-to-date on when the Spa & Fitness Yurts will be completed, subscribe to Nicewonder’s newsletter on their website.
On- and off-property adventure
From on-property axe throwing to golf at the Tom Fazio-designed course, there’s a lot to do besides drink wine. During my stay, they were in the midst of properly marking miles of fitness trails that meander through the forest and by the creek. But I managed to find the trails and a secret hanging swing along the tree line. They’ll also plan local excursions to the Birthplace of Country Music, The Barter Theater in Abingdon, fly-fishing, and race-related stays. Different packages cater to different tastes. No matter your dining, exploring, or relaxing proclivities, Nicewonder is just a few hours — but a whole world — away.
All photos are courtesy of Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards unless otherwise noted.
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Zoe Yarborough
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