Pandemics rarely come with silver linings, but if not for the COVID-19 outbreak, Utah fly fishing guide Layne Edwards wouldn’t be able to share perhaps the most touching fish tale ever told.
While teaching a waders-wearing travel writer how to cast while kneecap high in the clear waters of Middle Provo River, Edwards recalled when two women came out from the East a few months earlier. What the ladies wanted to do most on their Park City getaway was to fly fish for the first time. Among the many companies that offer the opportunity, they chose Park City Fly Fishing Guides (parkcityflyfishingguides.com), which caters to rookie rod people.
“As I was teaching the basics to one of the ladies, I noticed her friend crouching on the river bank crying with tremendous emotion,” Edwards said while adjusting the writer’s line for the nth time. “I went over to her and asked if she was OK. The woman looked up and her face was drenched in tears. She told me that where I’ve taken her, a majestic and serene spot a half-hour out of Park City, was the complete opposite of what she’s seen over the past several months.
“She explained that they’re both nurses at one of the biggest and busiest hospitals in New York City, and they were flooded with COVID-19 patients. After experiencing the horror of watching people die one after another and on little rest, the tranquility and natural beauty allowed her to finally release the grief she’s kept bottled up for months.”
The combination of being at one with nature, then hearing this all-too-real story while engaging in an activity out of your comfort zone is a lot to take on Day 1 of your three perfect ski-free days in Park City.
Anglers and the brown trout we caught and released aren’t the only ones living the charmed life in and around Park City. From California, it’s a short flight to Salt Lake City plus a half-hour shuttle to this world-famous resort town synonymous with epic skiing and epic movies.
But the itinerary of your three perfect days here (visitparkcity.com) doesn’t include the snow that woos skiers from around the world or the Sundance Film Festival held annually in Januarys when COVID-19 and its variants aren’t squashing non-essential travel. Perfect includes off-season rates and when Park City’s population is closer to the 8,000 it has permanently and not the 60,000 it swells to during pandemic-free December through March tourist seasons.
Your home base for two spring, summer or autumn nights is the St. Regis Deer Valley (marriott.com/hotels/travel/slcxr-the-st-regis-deer-valley). Five-star luxury at the conveniently located property is much more affordable when the adjacent Deer Valley Resort and other local ski playgrounds are on hiatus.
The flight and drive, followed by an unforgettable half-day fly fishing trip upon arrival, have you tired and hungry. You’ll be soundly sleeping soon enough in the 173-unit mountainside St. Regis, but first there’s a collection of fine dining establishments open for dinner just a free five-minute shuttle away from the resort. Tonight, it’s a gastronomic gem on Main Street, pretty much the only thoroughfare you’ll ever explore in Park City with its unique boutiques and vibrant food and bar scene. Graced by rustic décor reminiscent of Old New Mexico, Chimayo (368 Main) offers eclectic Spanish-influenced cuisine that scores high on taste and plating.
Day 2 begins with breakfast at Rime, St. Regis’ aesthetic indoor-outdoor main dining room that doubles as a popular steak and seafood supper spot.
Taking the free shuttle van from your Deer Valley property to the heart of Main Street just down the hill, you peruse the specialty shops on both sides. Lunch is a short stroll away at The Eating Establishment (317 Main), a busy diner-gallery frequented by locals and visitors. For fun, you check out Park City Escape Room just off the strip.
Shuttling back to the resort, you arrive just in time for a St. Regis ritual: the dramatic champagne sabering that occurs at 5:30 p.m., just as the sun is about to set against a beautiful view of the Wasatch Mountains. Guests who came up from the property’s base arrived via funicular, and that unique mode of transportation is something you’ll need to ride during this stay.
After freshening up, it’s back down the hill for dinner at Riverhorse on Main (540 Main). Park City’s top-rated restaurant doesn’t disappoint on the final evening of your getaway.
Day 3 starts with a short Uber ride and breakfast at Glitretind, the signature restaurant of nearby Stein Eriksen Lodge, a luxurious 65-unit resort named after the legendary late alpine skier who is considered both a founder of modern skiing and Park City’s resort industry. After checking out the quainter competition, it’s back to the St. Regis to pack for your flight back home, where you’ll arrived recharged and wanting to return to Park City. Who knows, maybe even in ski season.
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