I was snowshoeing down a ridge in the enveloping winter darkness.
Our guide suddenly stopped us and asked us to flick off our headlamps.
“Oh, more deer,” I thought. But in the silence of the night, he pointed not to the brush where we’d spotted many animals, but up to the sky.
Above us in all its glory, the Milky Way.
That was one of the many special moments I had in Utah’s Heber Valley.
Visiting for the first time, I savored the scenery; much of the area is known as “Utah’s Little Switzerland.” I meandered through a quaint Swiss-themed town where the town hall plays like a giant cuckoo clock each day at noontime — glockenspiel included.
It was great to be so far away from the bustle of places like Salt Lake City and even Park City.
But Heber Valley, with all its vast beauty and mellow charm isn’t off the beaten path. In fact, the umpteen times I’ve headed to Park City, I’d passed right by it.
So close it is to that star-studded ski town (just 10 miles south), you can zip in for drinks or dinner in 15 minutes. And Deer Valley’s Jordanelle Express Gondola – a local’s secret lift that zips you up the famed mountain without having to take on the morning rush — is only a few moments’ drive up the road.
In other words, a serene, lovely, accessible and more affordable option exists near popular Park City; a place that lets you embrace nature, take on some cool activities and save a few bucks; all while within easy access of the big show.
And those cool activities live up to the hype: Swim in the earth-warmed waters of a natural crater. Snowshoe, Nordic ski, hike or snowmobile (or if you are like my crazy friend Haven, skijoring!) Dine and sip locally sourced food — you can do it all in Heber Valley.
I centered my trip at the Zermatt Resort (zermattresort.com) in Midway. While it is in need of an update (and they have one coming), its bones are good. Rooms are bright and spacious and the grounds are big. Its location is perfect; I could get to whatever I wanted in a snap — and even walk across the street to where you can swim in a real, natural crater.
While I skied all over — Deer Valley one day, Sundance Resort the next — as well as took time to dine and enjoy apres in Park City proper, I also took my time to get to know Heber Valley itself.
The food
The restaurant choices in Heber Valley are plentiful. At the Lakehouse at Deer Creek (thelakehousedeercreek.com) I enjoyed an incredible meat pie created by chef Tamara Stanger, who, while visiting tables at the spot, told us she makes every pie by hand.
For a more casual but just as cool lunch, I tried out Cafe Galleria (thecafegalleria.com) and sat in their heated wooden outdoor dining structure.
For coffee and great baked goods, I stopped in on my way skiing at the Fill’er Up Coffee Station (fillerupcoffeestation.com), a converted gas station.
The fun
Yes, it’s all close to the skiing, but even a dyed-in-the-wool skier like me likes to do more to round out a trip. Heber Valley has so many choices, I’ll need to come back to do more.
A yurt dinner was led by Wilderness Access Outfitters (waoutah.com).We hiked an easy trail up, settled in for a chef-prepared four-course dinner (with dessert being s’mores over an open fire, using locally made artisan marshmallows). They offer more too: fly-fishing, hiking and longer snowshoeing trips).
There’s an Ice Castle to visit (icecastles.com/utah) — an adventure I did not fully understand until I did it — super cool for any age. There’s the Soldier Hollow Nordic Center, host of the biathlon, cross-country skiing and the cross-country skiing portion of the Nordic combined events for the 2002 Olympics. Today, you can Nordic ski there (lessons are available), take a guided snowmobile adventure and even have a biathlon experience.
Midway has quaint shops run by locals, and a Swiss vibe by design. After the land was settled (the name Midway comes from an agreement between local Native Americans and Mormon settlers), those who made it their home realized it looked a bit Swiss and embraced that. Today, it’s home to a huge annual Swiss-themed multiday event.
As I dined in the wooden igloo at Cafe Galleria, I suddenly heard a clock ringing noontime. How quaint, I thought as the sound reverberated through town.
Then a compartment in the town hall clock opened up and revealed a spinning Swiss scene, complete with lads in lederhosen, milkmaids and other country folk. Swiss music played as it spun, and just a few miles from busy Park City, there was a lovely tune, an old-fashioned clock and a respite in a beautiful setting.
I’ll consider Heber Valley as a home base for more Utah ski trips. You can learn more at gohebervalley.com.
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