Dont Miss the Best Off-Season Beach in America

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© Provided by Fodor’s


It’s late afternoon at Cannon Beach, and Oregon’s windswept coast is at once moody and cozy. The gathering clouds over Haystack Rock—that iconic sea stack featured in such cult films as The Goonies—towers ahead as I warm my feet by the beach bonfire. I’m miles away from the bustling streets of New York, where the mounting summer heat has made the city feel like a sizzling frying pan. Amidst hot garbage smells and sweat-soaked subway rides, I’ve longed for the chilly weather of the Northwest, often losing myself to thoughts of knit sweaters and wine-fueled nights spent watching the rolling waves of the Pacific Ocean.

“Another log?” I’m pulled from my reverie by a boyish teen smiling kindly and gesturing towards the waning fire. He is a staffer of the Surfsand Resort, a beachfront hotel that recalls the nostalgic days of family resort vacations. Since checking in, I’ve been lulled into a sort of dream-like state marked by cotton-candy skies, the sing-song of seabirds, and the crescendo of thunderstorms heading out to sea.



Courtesy of Surfsand Resort


© Provided by Fodor’s
Courtesy of Surfsand Resort

My partner and I arrived at Surfsand a mere two days prior and instantly realized this would be no ordinary stay. Sure, we expected beachfront views and impossibly fresh seafood, but I did not anticipate swooning at a list of resort activities ranging from nightly beach bonfires to weekend ice cream socials. Being two somewhat jaded New Yorkers, there’s something disarmingly sweet about Surfsand and its daily fresh cookie hour.

The Surfsand Resort is located in Cannon Beach, a small coastal city in Northwest Oregon named one of the 100 Most Beautiful Places in the World. While the walkable town of Cannon Beach is host to a slew of art galleries and locally-owned shops, their biggest draw is the 235-foot-high Haystack Rock. More than a land formation, Haystack is home to dozens of nesting puffins, seabirds, and star-fish studded pools that become a tourist draw when tides are low. Staying at Surfsand puts you steps away from Haystack Rock, which means early-risers can peer at anemones and enjoy empty beaches before the crowds arrive.

We’ve come to Cannon Beach after spending two days at the historic Heathman Hotel in downtown Portland. For 48 hours, we roamed the dizzying stacks of Powell’s City of Books (the largest independent bookstore in the world), inhaled the intoxicating aroma of flowers at the city’s International Rose Test Garden, and sipped on craft beers at one of Portland’s many breweries. Of the many attractions that Portland boasts, I’m the most envious of the city’s proximity to Cannon Beach, which is only a short 90-minute drive away. New York may have the Hamptons and Finger Lakes, but neither come close to the awe-inspiring rugged coastline of Oregon.

With the bonfire now blazing, I awkwardly balance my wine in one hand and a marshmallow roasting stick in the other. Surfsand offers free nightly bonfires for guests, but for an additional $50, the staff will build you a private one complete with a s’mores kit. I think of the many times I’ve seemingly tossed $50 to the wind back in New York—having wasted money on subpar take-out or overpriced cocktails—and instantly rationalize that now is not the time to be stingy. With a wine bottled ordered from The Wayfarer (Surfsand’s on-site restaurant), we watch the sunset with sticky marshmallow fingers and wine-soaked lips.



Nikki Vargas


© Provided by Fodor’s
Nikki Vargas

A quick note on The Wayfarer: I’m not one to religiously commit to room service when staying at a hotel. Instead, I prefer to scour a destination in search of gleaming examples of its local cuisine. This changes when I check into Surfsand and surprise myself by ordering (and continue ordering) from The Wayfarer. With our room’s balcony in full view of Haystack Rock, my favorite pastime quickly becomes eating fresh seafood while donning a fluffy robe in the comfort of our room.

Gallery: 10 Spectacular Under-the-Radar National Parks to Visit in Canada (Fodor’s)

10 Spectacular Under-the-Radar National Parks to Visit in Canada

Now that the Canadian border is open, there is no better time to explore the country’s natural beauty.

There are few better places suited to explore the natural world than the Canadian wilderness. From coast to coast, provinces to territories, the country is home to 48 national parks and over 100 other landmark sites. These parks preserve and protect the species within them, but are also the best way to get an intimate look at wildlife and explore the outdoors. Canada’s national parks are home to some of the world’s best hiking trails, biking paths, and cross-country skiing, but the parks also offer unexpected activities like fruit picking, golfing, and fly fishing. There is just about something for everyone in Canada’s national parks, no matter what level of adventurer you might be.



Georgian Bay Islands National Park

WHERE: Ontario

The remoteness of these 63 islands is what helps keep them under the radar. The park is only a few hour’s driving from Toronto, but once you arrive at Honey Harbor, it can only be accessed by boat. Its breathtaking landscape of windswept rocks, trees, and open water are all part of the reason why the painting collective, The Group of Seven , was drawn to this area.

Beausoleil Island is a great place to start your adventure. The sandy beaches, accessible hiking trails, and bayside cabins are perfect ways to take in the region. If you enjoy canoeing, there are many primitive campsites throughout the park that can only be accessed by paddling.



Bruce Peninsula National Park

WHERE: Ontario, Canada

Slightly further afield from Toronto, you can find what the locals call the Bruce Trail. The crystal-clear blue waters and sweeping cliffs feel almost otherworldly, or at least like you’ve left Canada. Hiking, bouldering , and stunning views are what this park is known for.

In the winter months, there is a network of cross-country ski trails to make the trip worthwhile. Be warned, the water is bracingly chilly, even in the summer heat. After your swim, make sure to head to the quaint town of Tobermory at the end of the peninsula for some fish and chips or check out one of the region’s famous lighthouses.



Gulf Islands National Park Reserve

WHERE: British Columbia

On the west coast, the Gulf Islands are not to be missed. Like many of the parks on this list, the Gulf Islands offer excellent hiking, biking, and camping, but what sets it apart is its wildlife and watersports. The 15 islands are home to a diverse array of flora and fauna, including orcas, sea lions, and wild lilies.

Rent a kayak to experience marine life first hand, or if it happens to be the season, visit one of the park’s 17 orchards and go fruit picking. The Mediterranean-like climate allows species to be grown, like olives, that can’t grow anywhere else in the country. The park is easily accessible by ferry from Vancouver, and many of the islands are connected by a bridge, which makes getting around simple. The area has attracted artisans for decades and has a thriving food, wine, and art scene.



Gros Morne National Park

WHERE: Newfoundland & Labrador

The Gros Morne is not only a national park, but it is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you’ve ever wanted to see a moose in the wild, this could be your chance. Gros Morne is home to moose, caribou, black bears, and arctic foxes. Geologically diverse, you can summit mountains, walk through bogs, and gaze at the fjords all in a single day. Hiking is the most popular activity, but for something a little different, hop on a boat tour to get a closer look at the glacier-carved fjords and waterfalls. They won’t disappoint!



Cape Breton Highlands National Park

WHERE: New Brunswick

Hiking, biking, or walking the Cabot Trail is this park’s main attraction. The park is part of the Appalachian Mountain chain and surrounded by the Atlantic, making the views astonishing. It’s also home to great fishing where, if you’re lucky, you could catch a speckled trout or salmon.

If catching dinner isn’t on your agenda, many family-owned restaurants dot the trail where you can find everything from local Acadian food or learn how to have a seaside lobster boil. The park’s newest attraction, a 27 car gondola, makes it even easier to take in those sweeping Atlantic views.



Kootenay National Park

WHERE: British Columbia

When most think of visiting the Rockies, they usually end up at other more popular parks like Banff and Jasper, but a trip to the Kootenays is just as gratifying. This is one of the few parks that thrives more in winter than in summer due to its vibrant ski scene. You can find traditional downhill slopes like Revelstoke and Fernie, but for the more adventurous and experienced travelers, the park is home to a vast network of backcountry trails where a guide is highly recommended. After your ski, a visit to Radium Hot Springs is a must to soothe your sore muscles. For a place to sleep, check out the park’s many lodges.



Kluane National Park and Reserve

WHERE: Yukon

Found in Canada’s Yukon territory, Kulane is one of the more remote parks, but it is more than worthwhile to make the trek. If you’re one of the many people who dream of seeing the Northern Lights, then this is the park for you. Although technically visible from August through April, the phenomenon is most pronounced in the first few weeks of winter. Good thing there is plenty to do that time of year since the park is also home to cross-country ski trails and ice fishing. If you are more of a summer traveler, there is a great adventure to be had in rafting the Alsek River.



Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

WHERE: British Columbia

This park is composed of more than 200 small islands and is home to a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve is known for its astounding wildlife and views and its preservation of Indigenous villages. There are five main sacred sites to tour, and hiring a Watchman, a local Haida guide employed by the park, is recommended.

If getting the closest look into the natural landscape is on your agenda, renting a kayak and exploring by water can find you right next to humpback whales, puffins, and dolphins. There are also guided powerboat tours for those wanting something more laidback.



Thaidene Nene National Park Reserve

WHERE: Northwest Territories

The remote Thaidene Nene National Park Reserve is found in the Northwest Territories and is a fisherman’s dream. Great Slave Lake is home to some of the world’s best fishing, and in the summer months, it can be done 24 hours a day. The name of the lake refers to the Slavey peoples, a First Nations Indigenous peoples who live in the region; their preferred name is Dene Tha’ and there’s been a push to change the lake’s name.

For most of June and July in this region, the sun never sets, allowing you to start your adventure whenever your heart desires. Another popular way to harness the vastness of the park is through a flight tour. You can hire a prop plane or helicopter to give you an aerial tour of the region. For those looking for something more low-key, berry picking is done from the summer through the early fall.



Fundy National Park

WHERE: New Brunswick

Fundy is another one of Canada’s maritime parks and is home to the world’s highest tides and rugged coastline. Hiking and kayaking are popular activities in the region, but exploring the ocean floor is unique. At low tide, you can walk onto the mudflats, either on your own or with a guide, and explore marine life, including rock crabs, periwinkles, and sea snails. If you need a destination to hike to, journey to one of the park’s more than 25 waterfalls on over 60 miles of trails. If you’re a golfer, Fundy has a 9-hole course that overlooks the Atlantic; it’s not a bad way to catch one of those spectacular views.




11/11 SLIDES

Sitting cross-legged near our in-room fireplace, I order the Wayfarer Clam Bake, which comes brimming with Dungeness crab legs, local manila clams, wild white prawns, andouille sausage, red potatoes, and corn tossed in an Old Bay butter. Without other restaurant patrons in view, I let crab shells go flying like shrapnel as I tear into the buttery legs and wash them down with white wine.



Nikki Vargas


© Provided by Fodor’s
Nikki Vargas

Between slow mornings and even slower evenings at Surfsand, it is during the day that we embrace the natural beauty that Cannon Beach offers. Nearby Ecola State Park stretches across nine miles of coastline, offering a veritable bounty of hiking, tide pooling, surfing, and wildlife spotting activities. Even closer is the Arcadia Beach State Recreation Site, which rests just a mile south of town. Anchored by Humbug point to the north and Hug Point to the south, this stretch of beach is home to ocean-carved caves and sandstone bluffs.

At low tide, you can walk along the rocky ledges at each end to cross over to the beach on the other side. On the day we decide to do this, we hug the slick wall of Humbug point until the ground beneath us shifts from rock to sand. We walk along the water’s edge, stumbling across shimmering beached moon jellyfish, which decorate the gray-black sand-like holiday ornaments. It’s not a tropical beach with verdant palm trees and cerulean waters, but to me, it’s better. Every cliché and beloved fall trope seems to apply to the moody theme of Oregon’s beaches. The only thing missing? Pumpkin spice and a true-crime podcast.



Nikki Vargas


© Provided by Fodor’s
Nikki Vargas

This being the final days of summer, the weather in Cannon Beach is teetering on fall with gloomy clouds and chilly temperatures. A light rain threatens to derail our bonfire but quickly evolves into a refreshing mist carrying the scent of saltwater with it. For some, this melancholy weather might be a deterrent, but for us, it is exactly the reason we have flown across the country. During our stay, the weather in Cannon Beach remains a perfect blend of warm and cool, making it ideal for daytime hiking and evening bonfires. By midday, it’s balmy enough to peel off our sweaters and walk along the beach in a t-shirt. By evening, it’s cool enough to snuggle under blankets in the glow of a bonfire.

The dog days of summer at Cannon Beach are amongst the busiest, especially in July when tourists flock to Oregon’s coast for warm-weather activities. During the high season, congested restaurants, crowded beaches, and high-rate hotel rooms can make a visit both loud and expensive. According to the Cannon Beach tourism site, the best time to visit is in the fall and winter during what they refer to locally as “the magic season.”



Nikki Vargas


© Provided by Fodor’s
Nikki Vargas

During this low season, room rates drop, and the sprawling beaches suddenly become more secluded. While the summer months belong to the ice-cream-covered children and their doting parents, it seems the off-season is one for the artists and dreamers looking for nothing more but to bask in the quiet power of the Pacific Ocean.

Our fire now distilled down to glowing embers; I already miss the feeling of being at Cannon Beach. Tomorrow, we’ll wake up before daybreak to make the 90-minute drive back to Portland to return our rental car and fly to New York. By this time tomorrow, I’ll be in Queens, falling asleep to the harsh cacophony of city sounds rather than to the tranquil tempo of ocean waves.

Leaning back into my beach chair, I reach for my partner’s hand as I bring my wine glass to my lips. The sun is now gone, Haystack Rock stands like a ghostly silhouette against a darkening sky. The Pacific Ocean is at once beautiful and intimidating in its vastness, while all along the beach glowing bonfires dot the sand like stars in a night sky. It’s the perfect ending to our trip and the ideal beginning to what is truly a magical season.

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