At Middle Creek Ranch outside of Steamboat Springs, Colorado, heaven includes a well-appointed guest cabin, private chef, activity-filled days, star-filled nights — and 10,000 acres all to yourself.
Driving onto the massive Middle Creek Ranch is like entering a Western wonderland. The gravel road that cuts through the 10,000-plus acres takes you past herds of grazing buffalo, cattle, and a horse facility with almost two dozen very well-cared-for horses. The name comes from the creek formed by the convergence of three strongly flowing streams: the Little Middle, Middle, and North Fork.
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Nestled in Oak Creek outside of Steamboat Springs, in Colorado’s rich and fertile Yampa River Valley, the private and rentable ranch boasts Rocky Mountain beauty and a welcoming ranch compound reached at the end of the 4.6-mile drive. We’re greeted by the property managers, who show us to our two-bedroom (with a loft) log guest cabin. No scrimping on amenities here: from the freshly cut wildflowers on the front porch and kitchen counter to the fridge stocked with cold beverages to the Turkish towels and Egyptian-cotton bedding.
After we settle in for a bit, we get the grand tour in an open-air four-wheeler. One of the remarkable things about Middle Creek is the number of ecosystems on the canyon-rich ranch, from giant pine trees and tall aspens to acres of dense 6-foot-tall ferns that call to mind Jurassic Park. After a three-hour tour, we return to the main lodge for a gourmet meal the chef has prepared for us. After dinner, we almost rally for a soak in the hot tub, but we’re just too contented right where we sit. The rest of the evening consists of rocking on the front porch, gazing into a star-filled sky, and listening to nothing but the quiet. After all the fresh air and with no light pollution sneaking in the windows, we sleep like babies.
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We wake up and ready ourselves for a hike, managing just a tiny fraction of the property on foot before we head off on an adventure we didn’t even know was on our bucket list. We learn firsthand what “caking the buffalo” is all about as the ranch manager feeds 100 head of enthusiastic bison supplements near the open Jeep where we sit slack-jawed and camera-happy. One of the young calves seems to be thinking about jumping into the front seat with me. Nothing could be more magnificently removed from my normal day-to-day.
Next we’re off to the barn, where several of the horses are being brushed and then saddled, soon to be mounted by three female cowboys who will be riding out on the property to head off several head of cattle that have escaped from the herd. Then comes a fly-fishing lesson. After several tries I cast the fly deep into the center of the stocked pond, and although I don’t catch anything, I feel truly alive in my own A River Runs Through It moment.
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Our heavenly time at Middle Creek Ranch passes way too quickly — even as it seems to slow down to a delightfully languid pace that really lets us savor the moments and connect with nature. Luckily, we can come back. Up till now, the ranch has been entirely private but has recently opened for weeklong retreats and celebrations, for guests to rent out the whole 10,000 acres. The luxury price tag includes the spacious main house and two guest cabins (altogether they sleep 18 or more) as well as the lodge, a private chef for the week, and all ranch amenities, including shooting at the gun range, horseback riding, bicycling, four-wheeler tours, fly-fishing, hiking, and use of the swimming hole with private deck. And don’t forget caking the buffalo.
Stays at Middle Creek Ranch can be arranged through Explore Ranches, a private-land experiential-travel company that connects travelers with wild and scenic private properties and connects landowners with guides, musicians, program providers, archaeologists, astronomers, culinary experts, and other immersive-travel outfitters. For more information and to see Explore Ranches’ portfolio of properties, visit exploreranches.com.
Photography: Images courtesy Explore Ranches
From our January 2021 issue.
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