Wild game good for you — except when it isn’t | Columnists

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Say “autumn” in this area of Wyoming and many think of shimmering aspen trees, bugling elk, dry fly-fishing and big-game hunting. These signs of fall haven’t changed for millennia in these parts, and they remain icons of our mountain valley and classic traditions of Western life today.

Sound Bites has covered the benefits of eating cold-water fish, including local trout. This column looks at the benefits — and some of the concerns — of harvesting and enjoying game meat.

Hunters in the West have been “locavores” since long before the term existed. Stalking, shooting and preserving one’s own meat is a Wyoming tradition that goes way back. Wild creatures were the only source of red meat for many years. And it’s still the only option for many, either by need or by cultural choice.

The health benefits of eating game meat are many. Because elk, deer, moose, antelope, big horn sheep, mountain goats and bison do not eat grain, like some livestock animals, they end up with a much healthier fatty-acid profile. Further, because they are active animals, they are leaner, with more protein and minerals, and less fat, saturated fat and calories. Better yet they are much less likely to contain any of the hormones, antibiotics and man-made pesticides found in conventional meat.

Conventionally raised meat is usually “finished” with corn to increase the fat content. That leads to a production of saturated fat in the meat — not cholesterol — that promotes heart disease.

Other types of fatty acids in wild and domestic animals include the polyunsaturated fats Omega-6 and Omega-3s. The World Health Organization recommends a ratio of these fats that includes more Omega-3s and less Omega-6s.

Omega-3s, also found in fish and some plant foods, tend to decrease atherosclerotic plaque in blood vessels, leading to a decreased risk for cardiac disease. Omega-3s are also known to thin the blood, making it less likely to clot and form blockages in vessels. Maybe best of all, Omega-3s help decrease inflammation in the body. This is certainly beneficial for active recovery after a long day of hiking, climbing, biking or skiing.

Omega-6 fats are known to cause inflammation in the body. Arthritis, heart disease and cancer are all connected to inflammation. Game meat has more Omega-3s and fewer Omega-6s — the opposite of grain-fed domestic animals.

Fewer toxins, a healthier fat profile, a richness of nutrients: Eating game meat seems like a no-brainer if you eat meat. But recent research has a few cautions.

For years the news has discussed the questions of lead ammunition. Studies have shown that birds — specifically eagles, condors and peregrine falcons — can accumulate toxic levels of lead by eating offal left behind by hunters who use lead ammo. Partly for that reason, Grand Teton National Park and the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway require hunters to use non-lead ammunition.

Until recently the effect of lead from game on humans has been unstudied. Then a University of North Dakota researcher saw radiographic lead powder in game animals that provide food for raptors. This “ah-ha” moment spawned studies of meat donated to food pantries, which found that 60% of all donated meat was contaminated with lead. Further research found that meat taken from as far as 18 inches from an exit wound contained lead fragments, generally too small to see or feel and so easily ingested undetected. Studies of families in North Dakota that eat game meat regularly showed they harbored higher blood lead levels than those who eat farm-raised meat.

This has led several state health departments to issue warnings about consuming wild game. Because lead has been linked to lower IQ in children, stunted growth and kidney damage, the recommendation is that children younger than 6 avoid eating game meat harvested with lead ammo. And because pregnant women with high blood lead levels can experience miscarriage, low birth weight babies and stillbirth, the same recommendation has been given to them.

Older children and adults risk high blood pressure, hearing loss, infertility and kidney damage from too much lead in their bodies. Therefore it’s recommended that they minimize their exposure to meat that was killed with lead ammo.

A more recent health concern with game meat is chronic wasting disease. Sometimes called “zombie deer disease,” CWD is related to mad cow disease. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention has cited this neurodegenerative disease of the brain as a possible threat to hunters, both in processing and eating their meat. After studies of experimental infections to monkeys the CDC now strongly recommends having game meat tested for CWD. So far only one Teton County sample — obtained in 2018 from a mule deer hit by a car near Kelly — has come back positive for CWC.

There are no known cases of transmission from game to human, and there’s one known positive case of this kind of spongiform encephalopathy in the county, it might be easy to ignore chronic wasting disease. But by dropping off a sample with Wyoming Game and Fish, locals can determine the risk of harvesting an animal positive for CWD. This simple procedure can help biologists continue to monitor this possible big-game health disaster, and may help keep hunters and their families safe.

Hunting is a healthy tradition, both for humans and the environment, that will live long in Wyoming. Game provides nutritious food and a chance to get outside to enjoy the wonders of our valley. With wise decisions, safety for the hunter, their family, and the environment will be assured.

Therese Lowe Metherell, a dietitian and nutritionist, has been in private practice in Jackson for 30 years. You can contact her at peaknutrition68@gmail.com.


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