[Interview begins at 49:06]
I did a podcast a few weeks ago that was billed as a canoe and kayak podcast, but my guest and I spent a lot of time on kayaks and not much on canoes. Some of you took me to task and asked for more information on fly fishing from canoes, so I asked retired president and CEO of Orvis, Perk Perkins, to share his tips with us. Perk fishes from a canoe more than anyone else I know, and has been using these craft all his life. He gives us some great tips on making fly fishing from a canoe more fun and productive.
In the Fly Box, we have some fascinating questions from listeners, including:
- Should I use a double-taper or weight-forward line on my small-stream rod?
- If you fish barbless dry flies with a dry/dropper rig, won’t the knot slip off the hook?
- What can I do to lessen my shoulder involvement in casting? I have severe arthritis in my right shoulder. Should I learn to cast left-handed?
- Do tippet rings make tying on a dropper less fussy? Won’t the fish see a tippet ring?
- What is your opinion on attractor patterns?
- What do you think of UV resins and tying materials?
- If I want to fish a leader with a light butt section, what diameter should the permanent loop be on my fly line? The permanent loop on my fly line got damaged.
- My fly line says “cold to moderate temperatures.” Can I also use this line for fishing for bass during the summer?
- Do flies need to be perfect and symmetrical?
- Is road kill of any use in fly tying?
- We were catching hickory shad on spoons we made using Krystal Flash and UV resin. People told us we weren’t fly fishing. What’s your take on flies that aren’t really “flies”?
- How are fly rods most often broken?
- What rod do I need to make my mono rig work better?
- I see many color variations in pre-made dubbing blends; for instance one March Brown dubbing is brown and another one is light tan. Do insects vary in color? Does color even make a difference?
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