Travel: Aitutaki is paradise on earth

Eighteen months ago, we got married. But, thanks to Covid any kind of honeymoon was put on hold, giving me plenty of time to ponder the perfect destination.

Right from the start, Rarotonga was top of my list. I had been there once, ten years ago and was keen to return. By chance, I stumbled across a YouTube video on Bonefishing, the holy grail for any fly fisherman worth his salt. Turns out, neighbouring Aitutaki is one of the few places in the world you find the elusive bonefish.

Given my husband is a passionate fly fisherman, it didn’t take much convincing and the decision was made. We were off to Aitutaki for my husband’s fishing trip, I mean, our honeymoon.

Arriving at the island, 45 minutes by plane from Rarotonga is like literally arriving in paradise. Swaying palm trees, white sandy beaches and crystal clear lagoons.

I have been to some incredible places in my life, but never seen anything quite as spectacular as this.

Our home for the next five days was the Pacific Resort, a five-star resort with 29 individual beachfront bungalows amongst beautifully manicured tropical gardens.

Our bungalow was luxurious, with every need accounted for. It was comfortable and welcoming, with a large balcony opening onto the beach, complete with an outdoor shower and foot bath to rinse off after swimming right on your doorstep.

The heart of the resort is a stunning infinity pool, where you can swim laps or simply swim up to the edge and gaze out to the ocean, a view you never tire of.

The bar offers a daily happy hour and guest-friendly cocktails, including the ‘Belinda’ on the day of our arrival- for the record it was delicious.

The staff are warm and welcoming, quick with a smile and a joke and full of local knowledge. Four out of five nights, we ate at the resort restaurant Rapae Bay and the food and service were impeccable. Most of note, the Ika Mata or raw fish, which we had every meal.

Our first day was picture-perfect and we were off on a day excursion on the Vaka Cruise. We were collected from our hotel by our guide Ali who has a deep connection to his culture and history and was full of songs, jokes and information.

The tour lasts for around 6 hours on board the 21-metre Vaka Titi-Ai-Tonga. It calls in at some of the lagoons stunning islands, a snorkelling stop complete with a very friendly giant trevally and a delicious BBQ lunch on board.

Our last stop was a chance for some free time exploring the legendary ‘One Foot Island’ and on the way home Ali regaled us with more stories about the island and its history. The Vaka Cruise is one of the island’s most popular activities and while Covid hit it (and the entire island) hard, they are now back in full swing and bookings are essential.

Our next outing was our bonefishing trip. Excitement levels were high, especially for my husband who has spent the past twenty years fishing for trout in the rivers around New Zealand. He has heard many a story about the elusive bonefish and was determined to not be going home only with stories of the one that got away.

Our guide was Tia, who, along with his twin brother Rua and other brother Etu runs the E2’s bonefishing charters. The brothers are world-renowned for their prowess in spotting and catching these fish which are now protected and flourishing in the lagoon.

Spotting the silvery, translucent fish is a skill passed down to the brothers from their father. It’s definitely a skill which takes some perfecting, as even after an entire day on the boat we were struggling to spot any of them.

Unbelievably, Craig hooked one within an hour of being on board. But quickly lost it. Then just a few minutes later he was back on and after a 10-minute fight of man vs fish, the bonefish was caught, photographed and released back into the water. With his bucket list well and truly ticked off, it was time to head into deeper waters to see if I could also catch one.

Fishing in the deeper waters requires far less skill, a jigging technique as opposed to casting with a fly rod. Very quickly I felt a bite and after much huffing and puffing( and almost giving up), I landed my very own bonefish, and at almost exactly the same time on the other side of the boat, Craig was reeling in his second fish of the day.

It was hard to top our bonefishing experience, but every day spent on the island was perfect. We spent an entire day by the resort pool, reading books and snorkelling just metres from our loungers.

Another day we rented a scooter and checked out some other beaches, the Avatea café (great smoothies and ice cream) and Craig had another go fishing on the lagoon flats. I also managed to sneak in a massage at the Tiare Spa.

It was one of the hardest places I’ve ever had to leave, but made easier with the knowledge that we will definitely be back.